Sunday, July 12, 2009

Nik Software Special at NSN

Several presenters at NECCC mentioned these various Nik software programs. NSN has them on sale. Lisa

Nik Software Special at NSN

BLOWOUT Bundle!

Sharpener Pro 3.0 and Dfine 2.0 Noise Reduction

Together at last.... (for a limited time)Save $130!! Two necessities in digital image editing are sharpening and noise reduction. Nik has mastered both with these two programs. And, as a user of Lightroom, Nik Sharpener in particualr is a breath of fresh air as the built-in sharpening was very limited until I installed Nik Sharpener. PhotoShop users will also appreciate Nik's intuitive interface using thier award winning U-point technology - and the abillity to use these programs as smart objects allows ultimate non-destructive control of the entire process. The folks at Nik have impressed me with every piece of software they produce. These two are no exception!- Greg Downing - Professional Photographer and Founder of NatureScapes.net

ORDER THIS BUNDLE WHILE SUPPLIES LAST!**(allow up to 7 days for shipping)

**ALSO Still running.....

We have had an overwhelming response to the Viveza promotion that we sent last week and have only a few left. I just started using Viveza as a plug-in for Lightroom 2.0 and am blown away by the power and ease of adjustments. It's so intuitive and straightforward. It would take me hours in PhotoShop to do what I can do in mere seconds using Viveza! - It's my #1 plugin for Lightroom and PhotoShop!-Greg Downing

ORDER NIK VIVEZA WHILE SUPPLIES LAST!**(allow up to 7 days for shipping)__________________________________________________________________________________
See all Nik Software offered at NSN at new special slashed pricing - lower than the manufacturer....

NECCC: Basic Photoshop: Where Do I Begin? by Lisa and Tom Cuchara

Join us at NECCC's extensive three-day photography conference held each July at the University of Massachusetts in Amherst, MA. The 2009 Conference Detail & Program Schedule are here! July 10-12 2009

Download the 2009 Program Schedule as an Excel file so you can highlight programs and print a personalized schedule. (A PDF version is also available on the Next Conference page.)

Basic Photoshop: Where Do I Begin? by Lisa and Tom Cuchara (CT)

Lisa and Tom will discuss the use of Photoshop as a tool in the ‘digital darkroom’. In this basic Photoshop program they will demonstrate (and take the mystery out of) ‘non-destructive’ editing techniques. They will walk you thru adjustment layers, show you some of the most often used filters (Sharpen, Blur, Artistic) and demonstrate some popular editing tools (Crop, Clone, Patch, Heal, Dodge, Burn). In addition, they will show you how to apply an effect to a selected area of your photograph. This introductory program is designed for people who are computer literate but new to Photoshop. (B)

If you have any questions or want us to put on a program for your group please email us. We have posted some notes to our program here on on my Blog http://lifethrulisaslens.blogspot.com/ which you can even subscribe to (no charge) for almost daily photography advice, information, phot0 ops, etc.

If you attended NECCC and would like the exe to view at your leisure please sign up for our blog and then email us (at TLCBAM [at] comcast.net) that you have subscribed and we will email you a file that you can open and view at your own speed.

Basic Photoshop by Tom and Lisa Cuchara

Introduction

Lisa and Tom will discuss the use of Photoshop as a tool in the “digital darkroom”. In this basic Photoshop program they will demonstrate (and take the mystery out of) “non-destructive” editing techniques. They will walk you thru adjustment layers, show you some of the most often used filters (such as Sharpen, Blur, Artistic) and demonstrate some popular editing tools (such as crop, clone, patch, heal, dodge, burn). The history palette and the layers palette will also be discussed. In addition they will show you how to apply an effect to a selected area of your photograph. This introductory program is designed for people who are computer literate but new to Photoshop and assume that you are familiar with the basic computer skills common to all program such as file open, close, minimize, maximize, etc.

The photographic goal remains the same as with film -- to get the best possible photograph that you can and depict the feeling that you felt at the time of that the image was taken. The camera, the lens and Photoshop are all TOOLS designed to assist you in that capture. I think that everyone agrees that Photoshop should not be a crutch or an excuse for sloppy photography. You should try your best to get it right in the camera, but at the same time you cannot always capture what your mind’s eye saw into the final image without ALL of the proper tools.

There are lots of references about Photoshop shortcuts (and you can even create your own for commonly used tasks). Here are a few shortcuts that we use often. Many shortcuts can also be seen by clicking on something in the menu bar (File, Edit, Image, Layer, etc.) then seeing the keyboard shortcut (if it exists) to the right of the command.

http://www.creativetechs.com/iq/photoshop_cs3_shortcuts_cheatsheet.html
http://morris-photographics.com/photoshop/shortcuts/
http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/photoshop-shortcut-commands/

For MAC users please note that the equivalent modifier keys: the Option Key is the Mac equivalent to the PC (Alt) key and the Command Key (also called the Apple key; with its either cloverleaf symbol, the Apple symbol or both). is, more or less, the equivalent of the PC user's Control Key. Cmd = Ctrl and Opt = Alt.

  • Ctrl Z = UNDO (a VERY good shortcut to learn)\
  • Ctrl 0 (zero) --> maximize the photo
  • Ctrl J --> Create a new layer
  • C --> Crop tool
  • S --> Clone tool
  • J --> Patch tool (and healing brush)
  • V --> move tool
  • The "[" left square-bracket key will decrease brush size
  • The "]" right square-bracket key will increase brush size
  • Shift and [ or ] will soften/harden the brush edges.
  • B --> selects the Brush tool (this is what you will paint with)
  • D --> sets the color palette back to Black and White
  • X --> switches between Black and White
  • Numbers on the keyboard à affects brush opacity (to get shades of gray) i.e. 5 = 50% opacity

Non-destructive Editing -- The background layer can be thought of as the “negative”. The first layer to make is a copy of the background (shortcut = Ctrl J). All editing is done on a layer, so as to keep the original pixels intact.

· Layers are the key to good image editing. Just think of a layer as an “overhead transparecy”, each layer on top of the previous one, yielding the end final image.

· Each layer can be edited independently, deleted or hidden.

· Layers allow the original image pixels to not be destroyed during the editing process.

· You can easily adjust image effects or adjustments, even weeks or months later.

Some Photoshop techniques that we will show you.

1. Adjustment Layers

Some adjustments layers that are available in Photoshop are listed to the right. We will demonstrate levels, hue/saturation, Black & White. There is more than one way to create an adjustment layer. To create one via the menu, go to Layer >> New Adjustment Layer and select the type of adjustment you wish to make. Or, to save a mouse click, you can create a new adjustment layer by clicking on the small half-black/half-white circle icon at the bottom of the Layers palette and select the desired type from the pop-up list.

To see the magic of adjustment layers, double-click on the black and white circle icon of what you just created in the Layers palette. The original editing dialog will re-open just as you left it with all your settings still intact. If you created a Levels adjustment layer, the black point, white point and all other sliders and settings will still be set the same when you re-open the layer. The benefit to using adjustment layers is that no edit is permanent until you flatten the image. You can even save the image with all of its adjustment layers as .psd or TIFF, and when you reopen it, all the changes you made to the adjustment layers will still be there for you to change back, remove, or alter.

The adjustment layer called “Levels” allows you to
adjust the whitepoint and blackpoint (levels at which brightness values reach their extremes).
When holding Alt while moving the black or white sliders, preview will show which values have maxed out. Good way of checking to see if you've lost all detail on either end of light spectrum.

The “eyeball” is used to turn on/off the visibility of any layer in the stack (you may have lots of layers). Many people do not use the Hue/Saturation adjustment layer correctly. You should almost never adjust these while on “Master” but rather you should take each color one at a time using the drop down box thereby adjusting the saturation of each color individually.

2. Sharpen (Unsharp mask)

The eye is naturally drawn to sharpness. When deciding what to selectively sharpen, think about what you want the viewer to notice in your image. Limit your sharpening to just those areas that really need it. ALL digital images need to be sharpened! But sharpening does not improve focus. Digital cameras also soften the image slightly in the process of converting the scene to digital format and the scanning process also involves a loss of sharpening to some degree in the conversion from “analog” film to digital file.

The Unsharp Mask (USM) gets its name from FILM days when a piece of glass was placed between the original negative and a positive mask to exaggerate contrast along dark/light junctions; the glass put the positive mask slightly out of focus from the negative (in other words, an unsharp positive mask was used to "sharpen" an underlying image). The software variant attempts to reproduce that effect. In areas where there isn't a lot of detail, there wouldn't be much difference versus in areas where there was detail, the original data and the blurred data would be significantly different, and thus the function senses there is detail or an edge there.

We will demonstrate how to sharpen using the USM (unsharp mask) and also how to sharpen just the edges by using the luminosity blending mode. Changing the blending mode to Luminosity mode for sharpening, has a big advantage because it sharpene the lightness values and not the color values of the image.

3. Blur (Gaussian, Dust and scratches)

Another thing we really like about editing our own photos is the ability to blur the background, thereby making it less distracting and allowing the viewer to concentrate on the subject.

· This essentially gives you the sharpness of an image taken at f 22 with the background of an image taken at f2.8.

· To blur the background first select the background. You can also select the “subject” if it is easier, and then invert the selection (PC shortcut = Ctrl/Shift “I”). You can copy the background, paste it to its own new layer and then apply the a blur filter (Gaussian or dust and scratches) to that layer. Alternatively you can create a mask and selectively apply this filter.

· Then apply the unsharp mask to a separate layer containing your subject. Again, the eye is naturally drawn to sharpness. When deciding what to selectively sharpen, think about what you want the viewer to notice in your image and limit your sharpening to just those areas.

4. Crop

The “crop tool” is one of our most used tools, it allows us to crop exactly to size (4x6, 11x14, etc) exactly where we want for the best image composition.

Aspect Ratio --> For 35mm – the ratio is 1:1.5

  • This means that you can get a full frame 4x6 or a full frame 8x12, 12x 18, 16x24 etc.
  • But NOT an 8x10.
  • For an 8x10 you HAVE to crop the image
  • Who gets to decide where to crop?? --> In the digital darkroom YOU do!

5. Clone, Patch, Heal

The “healing brush”, “patch tool” and “clone stamp” are three very useful tools, they allow you to get rid of unsightly “blemishes” on people, landscapes, etc. The Clone Stamp and Healing Brush tools are best used on a separate layer.

The Clone tool takes the pixel of the sample area onto the “flaw” that you are correcting. It is a wonderful tool (can’t climb down the waterfall to remove the beer can, then use the clone tool!). The Clone tool, however, has a drawback because the cloned area is easy to spot (because, sometimes, the color of the sample area and the area around the flaw does not match). This is why Adobe created the Healing Brush, which is a better tool because because it applies color and texture and it applies the tonal characteristic around the flaw. The Healing Brush identifies the flaw, the area near the flaw and the sample area. The Patch tool is just like the Healing Brush as it uses the same technique only for removing large flaws.

6. Dodge, Burn, Saturate

Non-destructive Dodging and Burning: Create a new layer (Shift Ctrl N), name it “dodge&burn” and change the mode of the new layer to Overlay (make sure that Fill with Overlay-neutral color is checked). In overlay mode 50% gray has no effect. Set your foreground color to black, use a soft-edged brush (opacity in the 5-50% range) and paint to burn the areas that need darkening (don’t forget the edges, lots of photographers vignette or burn the edges to keep your eye on your subject). Press X to change the foreground color to white and paint to dodge the areas of the image that need to be dodged (lightened). There is a lot of control when dodging/burning this way and it is completely re-editable too! Some people prefer to have TWO layers like this, one for dodging and one for burning, this allows them to change the opacity of each independently.

Photoshop can be quite daunting if taken all at once. Just learn one tool at a time. If you master one tool every week in a year you will have mastered 52 tools! The undo shortcut Ctrl Z is easily my most used tool (actually I use Ctrl Alt Z which allows for multiple undos).

There are lots of good books, videos, blogs and websites out there. I would highly recommend Scott Kelby. In fact, if you want one inexpensive but VERY simple and VERY good book I would recommend Scott Kelby's 7-Point System for Adobe Photoshop (ISBN-13: 978-0321501929) http://www.scottkelby.com/

If you want to see our own photographs then you can visit our Blog http://www.breaphotos.blogspot.com/ or our website at http://www.tlc.smugmug.com/

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Lisa's Adobe Photoshop CS3 Keyboard Shortcuts

Here are my Adobe Photoshop CS3 Keyboard Shortcuts, most are the same as the defaults, but a few I changed. I have bolded the shortcuts that I use the most. This gives you an idea of how many photoshop tools and commands you can automate. I HIGHLY encourage you to learn shortcuts as it will make you more efficient and faster in your post processing. Ye,s these can be overwhelming -- so just pick one per week to add to your knowledge base.

Application Menus

Command Shortcut

File
New... Ctrl+N
Open... Ctrl+O
Browse... Alt+Ctrl+O or Shift+Ctrl+O
Open As... Alt+Shift+Ctrl+O
Open As Smart Object...
Open Recent>
Clear Recent
Device Central...
Close Ctrl+W
Close All Alt+Ctrl+W
Close and Go To Bridge... Shift+Ctrl+W
Save Alt+Shift+Ctrl+S
Save As... Ctrl+S
Check In...
Save for Web & Devices...
Revert F12
Place...
Import>
Variable Data Sets...
Video Frames to Layers...
Annotations...
WIA-Hewlett-Packard OfficeJet G55...
WIA Support...
Export>
Data Sets as Files...
Paths to Illustrator...
PSD2FLA...
Render Video...
Send Video Preview to Device
Video Preview...
Zoomify...
Automate>
Batch...
PDF Presentation...
Create Droplet...
Crop and Straighten Photos
Contact Sheet II...
Picture Package...
Web Photo Gallery...
DRI Pro
WP Pro
Canon 20D Resize Pro...
Imagenomic Plug-in Console...
SiteGrinder 2
SiteGrinder 2 Tools
Nik Selective Tool... Alt+Ctrl+F11
Genuine Fractals PrintPro Express...
Genuine Fractals PrintPro...
PhotoTools Batch...
PhotoTools... Alt+Ctrl+F12
Conditional Mode Change...
Fit Image...
Merge to HDR...
Photomerge...
Scripts>
Image Processor...
Layer Comps to Files...
Layer Comps to PDF...
Layer Comps to WPG...
Export Layers to Files...
Script Events Manager...
4x6 blk borders no key
4x6 blk borders PREFS key
4x6 blk borders wht key
4x6 wht borders blk key
4x6 wht borders no key
4x6 wht borders PREFS key
5x7 blk borders no key
5x7 blk borders PREFS key
5x7 blk borders wht key
5x7 wht borders blk key
5x7 wht borders no key
5x7 wht borders PREFS key
8x10 blk borders no key
8x10 blk borders PREFS key
8x10 blk borders wht key
8x10 wht borders blk key
8x10 wht borders no key
8x10 wht borders PREFS key
Kubota Action Dashboard Shift+Ctrl+A
Kubota Edge Selector
Kubota NEW Starburst
Kubota theOvalSelector
Load Files into Stack...
Browse...
File Info... Alt+Shift+Ctrl+I
Page Setup... Shift+Ctrl+P
Print... Ctrl+P
Print One Copy Alt+Shift+Ctrl+P
Exit Ctrl+Q
Edit
Undo/Redo Ctrl+Z
Step Forward Shift+Ctrl+Z
Step Backward Alt+Ctrl+Z
Fade... Shift+Ctrl+F
Cut Ctrl+X
Copy Ctrl+C
Copy Merged Shift+Ctrl+C
Paste Ctrl+V
Paste Into Shift+Ctrl+V
Clear
Check Spelling...
Find and Replace Text...
Fill... Shift+F5
Stroke... Alt+Ctrl+F10
Free Transform Ctrl+T
Transform>
Again Shift+Ctrl+T
Scale
Rotate
Skew
Distort
Perspective
Warp
Rotate 180°
Rotate 90° CW
Rotate 90° CCW
Flip Horizontal Alt+Ctrl+H
Flip Vertical Alt+Ctrl+V

Auto-Align Layers...
Auto-Blend Layers
Define Brush Preset...
Define Pattern...
Define Custom Shape...
Purge>
Undo
Clipboard
Histories
All
Adobe PDF Presets...
Preset Manager...
Color Settings... Shift+Ctrl+K
Assign Profile...
Convert to Profile...
Keyboard Shortcuts... Alt+Shift+Ctrl+K
Menus... Alt+Shift+Ctrl+M
Preferences>
General... Ctrl+K
Interface...
File Handling...
Performance...
Cursors...
Transparency & Gamut...
Units & Rulers...
Guides, Grid & Slices...
Plug-Ins...
Type...
Image
Mode>
Bitmap
Grayscale
Duotone
Indexed Color
RGB Color
CMYK Color
Lab Color
Multichannel
8 Bits/Channel
16 Bits/Channel
32 Bits/Channel
Color Table...
Adjustments>
Levels... Ctrl+L
Auto Levels Shift+Ctrl+L
Auto Contrast Alt+Shift+Ctrl+L
Auto Color Shift+Ctrl+B
Curves... Ctrl+M
Color Balance... Ctrl+B

Brightness/Contrast...
Black & White... Alt+Shift+Ctrl+B
Hue/Saturation...
Desaturate Shift+Ctrl+U
Match Color...
Replace Color...
Selective Color...
Channel Mixer...
Gradient Map...
Photo Filter...
Shadow/Highlight... F8
Exposure...
Invert Ctrl+I
Equalize
Threshold...
Posterize...
Variations...
Duplicate... Alt+Ctrl+F1
Apply Image...
Calculations...
Image Size... Alt+Ctrl+I
Canvas Size... Alt+Ctrl+C

Pixel Aspect Ratio>
Custom Pixel Aspect Ratio...
Delete Pixel Aspect Ratio...
Reset Pixel Aspect Ratios...
Square
Rotate Canvas>
180°
90° CW
90° CCW
Arbitrary...
Flip Canvas Horizontal Alt+Ctrl+H
Flip Canvas Vertical Alt+Ctrl+V

Crop
Trim...
Reveal All
Variables>
Define...
Data Sets...
Apply Data Set...
Trap...
Layer
New>
Layer... Shift+Ctrl+N
Background
Group...
Group from Layers...
Layer via Copy Ctrl+J
Layer via Cut Shift+Ctrl+J

Duplicate Layer (Group)...
Delete>
Delete Layer (Group)
Hidden Layers
Layer (Group) Properties
Layer Style>
Blending Options...
Drop Shadow...
Inner Shadow...
Outer Glow...
Inner Glow...
Bevel and Emboss...
Satin...
Color Overlay...
Gradient Overlay...
Pattern Overlay...
Stroke...
Copy Layer Style
Paste Layer Style
Clear Layer Style
Global Light...
Create Layers
Show/Hide All Effects
Scale Effects...
Smart Filter>
Disable Smart Filters
Delete Filter Mask
Disable Filter Mask
Clear Smart Filters
New Fill Layer>
Solid Color...
Gradient...
Pattern...
New Adjustment Layer>
Levels... Alt+Ctrl+F9
Curves...
Color Balance...
Brightness/Contrast...
Black & White...
Hue/Saturation... Ctrl+U
Selective Color...
Channel Mixer...
Gradient Map...
Photo Filter...
Exposure...
Invert...
Threshold...
Posterize...
Change Layer Content>
Solid Color...
Gradient...
Pattern...
Levels...
Curves...
Color Balance...
Brightness/Contrast...
Black & White...
Hue/Saturation...
Selective Color...
Channel Mixer...
Gradient Map...
Photo Filter...
Exposure...
Invert...
Threshold...
Posterize...
Layer Content Options...
Layer Mask>
Reveal All Shift+Ctrl+R
Hide All Shift+Ctrl+H

Reveal Selection
Hide Selection
Delete
Apply
Enable/Disable Layer Mask
Link/Unlink Layer Mask
Vector Mask>
Reveal All
Hide All
Current Path
Delete
Enable/Disable Vector Mask
Link/Unlink Vector Mask
Create/Release Clipping Mask Alt+Ctrl+G
Smart Objects>
Convert to Smart Object
New Smart Object via Copy
Edit Contents
Export Contents...
Replace Contents...
Stack Mode>
None
Rasterize
Type>
Create Work Path
Convert to Shape
Horizontal
Vertical
Anti-Alias None
Anti-Alias Sharp
Anti-Alias Crisp
Anti-Alias Strong
Anti-Alias Smooth
Convert Text Shape Type
Warp Text...
Update All Text Layers
Replace All Missing Fonts
Rasterize>
Type
Shape
Fill Content
Vector Mask
Smart Object
Layer
All Layers
New Layer Based Slice
Group Layers Ctrl+G
Ungroup Layers Shift+Ctrl+G
Hide Layers
Arrange>
Bring to Front Shift+Ctrl+]
Bring Forward Ctrl+]
Send Backward Ctrl+[
Send to Back Shift+Ctrl+[
Reverse
Align>
Top Edges
Vertical Centers
Bottom Edges
Left Edges
Horizontal Centers
Right Edges
Distribute>
Top Edges
Vertical Centers
Bottom Edges
Left Edges
Horizontal Centers
Right Edges
Lock All Layers
Link/Unlink Layers
Select Linked Layers
Merge Layers
Merge Visible Shift+Ctrl+E
Flatten Image Ctrl+E

Matting>
Defringe...
Remove Black Matte
Remove White Matte
Select
All Ctrl+A
Deselect Ctrl+D
Reselect Shift+Ctrl+D
Inverse Shift+Ctrl+I

Shift+F7
All Layers Alt+Ctrl+A
Deselect Layers
Similar Layers
Color Range...
Refine Edge... Alt+Ctrl+R
Modify>
Border...
Smooth...
Expand...
Contract...
Feather... Alt+Ctrl+D
Shift+F6
Grow
Similar
Transform Selection
Load Selection...
Save Selection...

Filter
Last Filter Ctrl+F
Convert for Smart Filters
Extract... Alt+Ctrl+X
Filter Gallery...
Liquify... Shift+Ctrl+X
Pattern Maker... Alt+Shift+Ctrl+X
Vanishing Point...
Artistic>
Colored Pencil...
Cutout...
Dry Brush...
Film Grain...
Fresco...
Neon Glow...
Paint Daubs...
Palette Knife...
Plastic Wrap...
Poster Edges...
Rough Pastels...
Smudge Stick...
Sponge...
Underpainting...
Watercolor...
Blur>
Average
Blur
Blur More
Box Blur...
Gaussian Blur...
Lens Blur...
Motion Blur...
Radial Blur...
Shape Blur...
Smart Blur...
Surface Blur...
Brush Strokes>
Accented Edges...
Angled Strokes...
Crosshatch...
Dark Strokes...
Ink Outlines...
Spatter...
Sprayed Strokes...
Sumi-e...
Distort>
Diffuse Glow...
Displace...
Glass...
Lens Correction...
Ocean Ripple...
Pinch...
Polar Coordinates...
Ripple...
Shear...
Spherize...
Twirl...
Wave...
ZigZag...
Noise>
Add Noise...
Despeckle
Dust & Scratches...
Median...
Reduce Noise...
Pixelate>
Color Halftone...
Crystallize...
Facet
Fragment
Mezzotint...
Mosaic...
Pointillize...
Render>
Clouds
Difference Clouds
Fibers...
Lens Flare...
Lighting Effects...
Sharpen>
Sharpen
Sharpen Edges
Sharpen More
Smart Sharpen...
Unsharp Mask...
Sketch>
Bas Relief...
Chalk & Charcoal...
Charcoal...
Chrome...
Conté Crayon...
Graphic Pen...
Halftone Pattern...
Note Paper...
Photocopy...
Plaster...
Reticulation...
Stamp...
Torn Edges...
Water Paper...
Stylize>
Diffuse...
Emboss...
Extrude...
Find Edges
Glowing Edges...
Solarize
Tiles...
Trace Contour...
Wind...
Texture>
Craquelure...
Grain...
Mosaic Tiles...
Patchwork...
Stained Glass...
Texturizer...
Video>
De-Interlace...
NTSC Colors
Other>
Custom...
High Pass...
Maximum...
Minimum...
Offset...

View
Proof Setup>
Custom...
Working CMYK
Working Cyan Plate
Working Magenta Plate
Working Yellow Plate
Working Black Plate
Working CMY Plates
Macintosh RGB
Windows RGB
Monitor RGB
Proof Colors Ctrl+Y
Gamut Warning Shift+Ctrl+Y
Pixel Aspect Ratio Correction
32-bit Preview Options...
Zoom In Ctrl++
Ctrl+=
Zoom Out Ctrl+-
Fit on Screen Ctrl+0
Actual Pixels Alt+Ctrl+0
Print Size
Screen Mode>
Standard Screen Mode
Maximized Screen Mode
Full Screen Mode With Menu Bar
Full Screen Mode
Extras Ctrl+H
Show>
Layer Edges
Selection Edges
Target Path
Grid Ctrl+'
Guides Ctrl+;
Smart Guides
Slices
Annotations
All
None
Show Extras Options...
Rulers Ctrl+R
Snap Shift+Ctrl+;
Snap To>
Guides
Grid
Layers
Slices
Document Bounds
All
None
Lock Guides Alt+Ctrl+;
Clear Guides
New Guide...
Lock Slices
Clear Slices
Window
Arrange>
Cascade
Tile Horizontally
Tile Vertically
Arrange Icons
Match Zoom
Match Location
Match Zoom and Location
New Window
Workspace>
Save Workspace...
Delete Workspace...
Default Workspace
Reset Palette Locations
Reset Keyboard Shortcuts
Reset Menus
Keyboard Shortcuts & Menus...
Basic
Legacy
What's New in CS3
Automation
Color and Tonal Correction
Image Analysis
Painting and Retouching
Printing and Proofing
Video and Film
Web Design
Working with Type
Actions Alt+F9 or F9
Animation
Brushes F5
Channels
Character
Clone Source
Color F6
Histogram
History
Info
Layer Comps
Layers F7
Navigator
Options
Paragraph
Paths
Styles
Swatches
Tool Presets
Tools
Help
Photoshop Help F1

Palette Menus
Command Shortcut

Actions
Button Mode
New Action...
New Set...
Duplicate
Delete
Play Shift+Ctrl+F11
Start/Stop Recording
Record Again...
Insert Menu Item...
Insert Stop...
Insert Path
Set Options...
Playback Options...
Clear All Actions
Reset Actions
Load Actions...
Replace Actions...
Save Actions...
Animation (Frames)
New Frame
Delete Frames
Delete Animation
Copy Frames
Paste Frames...
Select All Frames
Go To>
Next Frame
Previous Frame
First Frame
Last Frame
Tween...
Reverse Frames
Optimize Animation...
Make Frames From Layers
Flatten Frames Into Layers
Match Layer Across Frames...
Create New Layer for Each New Frame
New Layers Visible in All Frames
Palette Options...
Animation (Timeline)
Delete Keyframe(s)
Keyframe Interpolation>
Linear
Hold
Select All Keyframes
Select No Keyframes
Copy Keyframe(s)
Paste Keyframe(s)
Set Start of Work Area
Set End of Work Area
Go To>
Time...
Next Frame
Previous Frame
First Frame
Last Frame
Work Area Start
Work Area End
Allow Frame Skipping
Move Layer In Point to Current Time
Move Layer End Point to Current Time
Trim Layer Start to Current Time
Trim Layer End to Current Time
Trim Document Duration to Work Area
Split Layer
Lift Work Area
Extract Work Area
Make Frames From Layers
Flatten Frames Into Layers
Edit Timeline Comment...
Document Settings...
Convert to Frame Animation
Onion Skin Settings...
Enable Onion Skins
Show>
All Layers
Favorite Layers
Set Favorite Layers
Palette Options...
Brushes
Expanded View
New Brush Preset...
Clear Brush Controls
Reset All Locked Settings
Copy Texture to Other Tools
Rename Brush...
Delete Brush
Text Only
Small Thumbnail
Large Thumbnail
Small List
Large List
Stroke Thumbnail
Preset Manager...
Reset Brushes...
Load Brushes...
Save Brushes...
Replace Brushes...
Channels
New Channel...
Duplicate Channel...
Delete Channel
New Spot Channel...
Merge Spot Channel
Channel Options
Split Channels
Merge Channels...
Palette Options...
Clone Source
Source 1
Source 2
Source 3
Source 4
Source 5
Reset Transform
Show Overlay
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Thursday, July 9, 2009

3rd annual Italian photo contest

It's time to start thinking of this year's North Haven Sons and Daughters of Italy "Festival of Angels" on the North Haven green (August 21st and 22nd)...and that means it's time to break out your Italian photos, or digital image enlargements and have them displayed in our cultural tent.

It is the 3rd annual photo contest for our festival, and I know some of you out there have worthy photos to submit (how can you not...Italy is so beautiful!!) We again will have 1st, 2nd, and 3rd place ribbon winners, as well as a Lodge Honorable mention. Ribbon winners will be determined by the highest points scored in various elements of the photo (see attached rules).

Professional judging will be done by Castiglione Photography, Storytellers Photography, and Kathy McGarry Photography. All photos submitted meeting the guidelines will be on display for the entire festival. Laura and Bob Parisi are available to answer any of your questions. raparisi@hotmail.com

Please email Bob for the the attachments regarding the rules and application process.

Simply stated, a photo can be any size but you must mount it (put a backing behind it), and place it in a mat size 11x14 (any color of your choosing that will complement your photo, easily obtained at Michaels, Jo-Ann's Fabrics or similar place). WE will put all photos in black 11x 14 frames for display at the festival. Bring your entry to us with the nominal application fee by August 8th, and you're good to go! Help us spread the beauty of Italy, or Italian inspired activities here at home, to the expected 40,000 Italians, and Italian-lovers we expect at the festival! See you at the festival- Ciao!!

API TO ATTEND NEW ENGLAND CAMERA CLUB COUNCIL CONVENTION.

API TO ATTEND NEW ENGLAND CAMERA CLUB COUNCIL CONVENTION.

API will be attending the 64th annual New England Camera Club Council (NECCC) Conference, July 10th thru 12th, on the campus of the University of Massachusetts. Please plan on stopping by our exhibit booth for the latest info, discount coupons and to meet API instructors Mark Bowie and Joe Lefevre. For details about the event visit the NECCC website.We also recently announced a special 10% discount to all NECCC members. "In these tough economic times, we offer a variety of affordable workshops and photo tours in the Adirondacks. For the membership of the NECCC, our events are less than a tank full of gas away. Let us show you these incredible Adirondack locations for your next award winning shot!" said John Radigan, API Executive Director.This offer is good for any one 2009 ADKPI workshop and cannot be combined with any other discounts.

Hurry! Workshops are filling up fast!

19,000+ Walkers for July 18 Worldwide Photo Walk

19,000+ Walkers for July 18 Worldwide Photo Walk

Seriously?! This event has gotten huge and we are so thrilled about it. The sponsor list has grown too. The prizes you could win are incredible. One Grand Prize winner gets 17 – yes, 17 prizes! Then 10 Honorable Mentions each get 11 prizes. You can still sign up to walk in a city near you – pick from 900 locations.

Q. What is a Photo Walk?
A. It’s a social photography event where photographers get together, usually in a downtown area or trendy section of town, to walk around, shoot photos, and generally have fun with other photographers.

Q. When is the Scott Kelby 2nd Annual Worldwide Photo Walk™?
A. Saturday, July 18, 2009.

Q. How long does it last?
A. Two hours, from start to finish.

Q. When does it start?
A. It starts at a different time in each city (the time is chosen by the Photo Walk leader in each city, and is posted on your “City Page” here on the site).

Is there a cut-off date for starting new Photo walks?
A. The cut-off date for leader applications is June 18, 2009

Q. Where do we go on this walk?
A. Your local walk leader chooses the starting place and the basic route you’ll be following. They also choose an ending place (usually a local restaurant, pub, cafe, etc.) where you can wind down after the shoot, look at your photos from the day, and make new photography friends. At least, that’s the plan.

Q. How should I dress?
A. Casual, and wear comfortable shoes because you’ll be walking (Hey, it’s a photo “walk,” right?)

Q. Is there a fee to be part of this worldwide Photo Walk?
A. Nope, it’s totally free (well, if you buy food or drinks at the restaurant, that’s on you, but there’s no charge to be a part of the Photo Walk itself).

Q. Is the number of people in each city limited?
A. Yup. It’s limited to just 50 people per city (If groups get much bigger, it gets really hard to manage; hard to find a restaurant to hold more people, it creates crowd control problems, etc.)

Q. Do I have to sign up in advance?
A. Yeah, you have to let us know you’re going to a part of a particular city’s event by using the registration form (found right here). Don’t forget to choose your city from the pop-up menu.

Q. Is there any training during the event?
A. No—this is a social event, just for fun, but since you’re working with a group of photographers you always wind up learning something from each other (at least, we do).

Q. Do we have to stick together as one big group?
A. Nope. Once the walk starts, you kind of move at your own pace, and we try to make the routes short enough so you have plenty of time for shooting and exploring along the way, and still get to the ending point on time.

Q. How can I process my photos after the Photo Walk?
A. We highly recommend using Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 2. Matt Kloskowski will be providing a small training course. Or you can check out our Lightroom 2 Learning Center. Don’t have Lightoom? No worries. Download a free trial.

Q. What do we do with our photos once we’re done with the Photo Walk?
A. The website (and your Photo Walk leader) will have all of the details. Also, you’ll be able to come to the website and watch a mini-Lightroom online training course by Matt Kloskowski on how to best sort and prepare your photos for submission. The course will include:
Lesson 1: Importing your photos after the Photo WalkLesson 2: Picking your keepers and finding them quicklyLesson 3: Taking your photos from good to greatLesson 4: Integrating Lightroom with Photoshop for the finishing touchesLesson 5: Saving your photos to submit onlineLesson 6: Printing your photos

Q. Where will these photos be posted for judging?
A. The photos will be posted right here on this site so you can see the best shots from the other photo walkers in your area (and around the world).

Q. Is there a Grand Prize?
A. Oh man is there a grand prize!!!! Details of the mega prize package (awarded by Scott to the single best overall photo taken that day, from all the Photo Walk locations around the world) will be announced soon.

Q. How many cities and people participated in last year’s Photo Walk?
A. We had:
1. 8.324 photographers register for local walks
2. 47 Countries had participating cities
3. 44 States in the US had Photo Walks
4. We had a total of 236 cities worldwide
5. More than 1,017,125 photos were taken on walks that day

Q. How can I tell if there’s a Photo Walk near me?
A. Click on the Cities link above.

Q. What if there isn’t a Photo Walk planned for my city?
A. You can apply to be a Photo Walk leader. You just have to have the qualifications, which are listed on the Leader Registration Page.

Q. How can I lead a Photo Walk?
A. Click on the “Lead Your Own Photo Walk” button on the home page

Q. What if my city already has a Photo Walk, but I want to lead a walk, too?
A. Some big cities can accommodate more than one walk, and so as soon as one starts to fill up, we add a 2nd city walk if we have a leader apply. Or, if the walks are held geographically far from each other but technically in the same major city, we usually add those, too. (Cities like Paris, New York, London, Tokyo all can have multiple walks and draw from totally different population groups)

Q. The only walk for the city near me is already full. Is there any hope?
A. Photo Walks are limited to 50 photographers. If that doesn’t sound like a lot, you haven’t seen 50 photographers coming down the sidewalk at the same time, and later all converging at once on a restaurant or pub. It’s more like a scary bike gang (except without the bikes, or gang, or scariness). That said, July 18th is still a couple of months away, so don’t be discouraged if the first location is full. Another location could pop up that you’ll be able to register for. So check back regularly, or sign up to lead one if you meet the qualifications.

Q. What do I get for being a Photo Walk leader?
A. You get a free copy of Scott’s upcoming book, The Digital Photography Book, Volume 3 as soon as it’s released, and you get to pick the best shot from your group and award them with a free copy as well. Plus, that person is entered into the grand prize competition.

Q. Does everyone get accepted as a Photo Walk leader?
A. We’re looking for people who have experience leading groups, so if you’re the president of your local camera club, or a college teacher, or photography instructor, or you run a local camera store, or you’ve lead Photo Walks in your area before, etc., you’re more likely to get accepted to be a leader. We ask for your qualifications on the leader application, and that’s the type of experience we’re looking for. Last year, we had some people put, “Well, nobody else signed up from our city, so I guess I’ll do it.” That doesn’t instill a lot of confidence in you as a leader. So, in short, we read every application. If you convince us you’d make a good leader, we approve your walk.

Q. Why does it say “Under Construction” when I select a city that I want to walk in?
A. Once a leader is approved for a location, it’s the leader’s responsibility to log in and enter some information about their particular location. Once they have done this, the city page will go live, and you will be able to register.

Q. Do I have to enter the prize competition?
A. Absolutely not. This is a totally separate part of the experience, and if you don’t want to enter your images, you absolutely don’t have to (it’s just to make the experience more fun). Some people freaked out last year thinking they were required to enter, but just know—you absolutely don’t have to enter your image—you can go and shoot for the day, and never let anyone see your photos. Ever. They can be your private “secret” photos.

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Resurrect a Broken Camera as a Flowerpot

Too funny -- from http://photojojo.com/

Resurrect a Broken Camera as a Flowerpot

Extra photos for bloggers: 1, 2

What shall we do with a broken camera
What shall we do with a broken camera
What shall we do with a broken camera
Ear-ly in the morning

Fill it with dirt and put a plant in it
Fill it with dirt and put a plant in it
Fill it with dirt and put a plant in it
Ear-ly in the morning

Click the big link to see how to do it
Click the big link to see how to do it
Click the big link to see how to do it
Ear-ly in the morning

Resurrect a Broken Camera as a Flowerpot

Free Photo Magazine Subscriptions

Free Photo Magazine Subscriptions

Residents of the U.S. can request free subscriptions of two great photo magazines:After

Capturehttp://www.submag.com/sub/ak

Rangefinder Magazinehttp://www.submag.com/sub/rj?tc=1

Adirondack Waters with Mark Bowie Workshop

FEATURED WORKSHOP
Adirondack Waters with Mark Bowie

August 13-16 Lake Clear, New York

The Adirondacks' unique mix of mountains, woods, and water makes the landscape enchanting. Water reflects its many moods and doubles the beauty through reflection. Mark Bowie is an authority on the region, having photographed it extensively for his books, Adirondack Waters: Spirit of the Mountains and The Adirondacks: In Celebration of the Seasons. Mark will be guiding outdoor shooting sessions to many of his favorite locations and presenting indoor sessions on the art of photographing water.

Only a couple of spaces left. Don't wait, sign-up now!

About the Instructor

Mark Bowie is a third generation Adirondack photographer, an outdoors writer, nature and digital photography workshop leader, and an avid paddler. He's a frequent contributor to Adirondack Life and Adirondack Explorer magazines. His work has been published nationally in Natural History, and by the Sierra Club, Conde Nast Publications, Portal Publications, Tehabi Books and other publishers. He has produced several multi-media shows on the Adirondacks. He is the author of the award-winning coffee table book, Adirondack Waters: Spirit of the Mountains. For more information, visit our website. To register, call 216-531-2155.

wayne's stiched photo

Wow Wayne, thank you for passing this along!


Hi Lisa: I am attaching a resized copy of a stiched image I created back in the Summer of 2006 with 5 pictures of a water cascade in the White mountains of New Hampshire. The original can be printed at 4 feet wide at 400 dpi. One of the tricks that I use is to plan the images and stitch at a point in an image where there is a lot of detail so the stitch is not obvious. I also make sure I shoot in manual mode so there are no exposure differences for a more effective stitch. This image was stitched and retouched with Photoshop Elements. Feel free to use it in support of this article.

It is great to see examples of what people are doing with all this photographic advice and inspiration! Thanks!!

The Michelangelo Challenge by Guy Tal

I recently stumbled upon this great blog, website, photographer -- Guy Tal. He photographs VERy well, but he also write very well.

http://guytal.com/
http://guytal.com/wordpress

The Michelangelo Challenge

An aspect often overlooked in the making of photographic fine art is the role of the artist. To many it would seem self evident that it took a great creative mind to conceive a great painting or to make a great sculpture; but when it comes to photography the camera still gets far more than its fair share of the praise at the expense of the photographer.

Part of the reason, in my opinion, is the perception that creating art with a camera is in some way easier than doing so with a brush or a chisel. I would agree that rendering the image using photographic equipment is faster, cleaner, and yes even easier than doing so with other instruments but in the making of art those are trivial considerations at best.

To put a finer point on it - consider the difference between modern power tools and those that were available to artists of the Renaissance. Next time someone puts it to you that photographic art is in some way inferior to other forms because of the tools used, challenge them to pick up any tool they want at the nearest Home Depot and to re-create Michelangelo’s David.

Carl Heilman - New DVD, Summer Programs

Hi everyone! Happy summer! I just read through the last note I sent and noticed I mentioned a foot of snow still on the ground here. That - and spring have passed us by, and we're on to summer rain. Sure could use some sun here - the garden is really suffering from being too wet - but surviving. We certainly don't have to worry about the well going dry!

We have a couple of new products available this summer. First, we finally managed to do all the production work for the DVD version of 'The Wild Adirondacks' - the program that is shown daily at the Wild Center in Tupper Lake. We still need to add that to our website, but it is available through us - and through the Wild Center. They have it in the store at the Tupper Lake museum, and will also be available on their website www.wildcenter.org, when a 'store' is also added to their website.

I have two new books available this summer. The Coast of Maine - pub. by Rizzoli, has been out now for a couple of months. This book is the same format / size as my 'end table' book, The Adirondacks. Retail price is 17.95. My new book (same format) on Lake George should be available in early August. I'll have an advance copy here today to have my first look at the final copy, but the full shipment won't be here for a couple of weeks yet.
We have three programs and a photo tour scheduled this month, plus a digital weekend workshop the first weekend in August.

This Thurs., July 9, 7:30 PM, I'm presenting our newest Adirondack multi-media show, 'I Am the Adirondacks', for the Lake George Assoc. at Canoe Island Lodge in Diamond Point. Please contact the LGA www.lakegeorgeassociation.org for more information.

On July 19th at 7:30 PM, at the Tannery Pond Community Center in North Creek, I will be presenting, 'I Am the Adirondacks' - along with musician / composer Casey Filiaci and Adirondack folk singer / songwriterDan Berggren. This program will be a benefit for my good friend, songwriter and musician Dan Duggan, during his recovery from cancer. Suggested donation for the evening performance is $15.00. Hope to see you there!!!

On July 25th, I'm doing a slide show program on some of my favorite places in the Lake George area for the Lake George Land Conservancy, Bolton Landing at 2 PM. This is part of their day long celebration.

Links for these programs, and more information about the Lake George / Northwest Bay photo tour on July 25, the August 1,2 digital weekend, the Adirondack Living Show on August 6-9 - and any other summer programs and events, are on my website at http://www.carlheilman.com/photo-workshops.html . There is a separate link on that page for programs, as well as additional links for workshops and tours.

Feel free to contact us with any questions! www.carlheilman.com Hope you are having a great summer!!

Thanks! Carl

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Architectural Photography: Concepts & Strategies By George Fellner, AIA

Architectural Photography: Concepts & Strategies

By George Fellner, AIA

Connecticut Valley Camera Club
Deep River Library
Monday, August 31, 7:00pm

This program will cover the essentials of architectural photography in terms of concepts and strategies. The subject matter will cover equipment, camera settings, goals, building/site context, lighting, composition, people, culture, perspective, architectural elements and details, among other topics, as they relate to both interior and exterior architectural photography. In addition, playful juxtapositions will be presented, revealing the potential for creative images. Furthermore, the multiple and integrated use of architectural photography for the design process and architectural practice as a whole will be illustrated with actual projects. This program is for anyone who is interested in the built environment and in photographing the rich diversity that is inherent in architecture. As both an architect and a photographer, George Fellner will provide his unique perspective on architectural photography, review strategies, and share his personal experiences.

George Fellner received his Bachelor of Architecture degree from Virginia Tech and his Master of Architecture degree from the University of Florida. As principal of Fellner Associates Architects, he continues to utilize his design sensitivities for creative photography. He is the program director of the Connecticut Valley Camera Club and the co-chairman of the Committee on the Environment for the American Institute of Architects, CT Chapter. Fellner regularly gives presentations on architecture, sustainable design, and the environment, as well as photography. His images have appeared in travel guides, national journals, newspapers, business publications, and the recent book Green Homes: Dwellings for the 21st Century, as well as in numerous juried exhibitions. In addition, his photographs of Imaginary Realms, surrealistic macro images of minerals and crystals, have been featured in exhibitions at the EO Art Lab Gallery in Chester, CT.

Monday, July 6, 2009

wireless transmitting of photos to your computer

Eye-Fi memory cards allows wireless transmitting of photos to your computer.

The Eye-Fi Card is a wireless SD memory card for your digital camera. It stores photos and videos like standard SD memory card. But the Eye-Fi Card makes your camera wireless.
Built in Wi-Fi helps you organize and share your memories. Specify where you want your photos and videos sent. Select the Wi-Fi networks it can use. Then just turn on your camera to effortlessly transfer photos and video. No cables, no hassles, no kidding.

Ape teases two tiger cubs for the pure entertainment value of it

This crazy Gibbon Ape (not a monkey) teases two tiger cubs for the pure entertainment value of it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bk4ZqskRBPw

My cat does something like this to my puppy...

Sunday, July 5, 2009

AVOIDING BIG LENS DISASTERS

From Art Morris, Birds as Art

AVOIDING BIG LENS DISASTERS

Here is an important e-mail exchange with Dr. Joel Murphy:

AM: Hi Dr. Joel, re:

JM: Thanks for the advice on the Mongoose M3.5 tripod head; it is excellent and has performed flawlessly. I am using it with a Nikon D3 and (usually) the Nikkor 200-400 lens. I have the Mongoose mounted on an Gitzo GT3530 LS tripod. The tripod works fine when legs fully extended but it is very unstable and has fallen over many times when the legs were not fully extended resulting in damage to my Nikkor 200-400 lens. (I had to repair the lens with heavy duty bonding glue in remote Alaska because the tripod mount ring broke.) Can you recommend a larger tripod that is more sturdy?

AM: Before I answer, I need to say a few things.

#1: Here is the rule for big lens safety: if you leave your tripod unattended, it will fall over and result in damage to your equipment. Notice that it is not a matter of if, but of when.

#2: Before you set up a tripod, make sure that the legs of the tripod are all approximately the same length. If you put a rig down with one leg extended more than the other two, it is likely to fall over.

#3: Tripods that are fully extended are more likely to fall over than tripods with their legs shortened. And when they do go over, the damage will be greater.

#4: When setting down a tripod you need to be absolutely sure that the legs are fully splayed. With Gitzo tripods this means that the tab at the top of each of the three leg sections must be fully in and flash to the stop. And this goes double on windy days.

#5: When setting down a tripod on uneven ground it is imperative that the tripod platform be relatively square to the world, that is, the platform needs to be approximately parallel to level ground. To do this, you need to either lengthen the downhill leg or legs, or adjust the angle of either one or two legs by pulling out the aforementioned leg tab(s) and then pulling the leg or legs away from their original position so that the tripod platform is square to the world. The former is a dangerous choice; if you leave the uneven ground or hillside and put the rig down without remembering to even the leg lengths, the rig will likely topple.

#6: Here is the rule for big lens safety: if you leave your tripod unattended, it will fall over and result in damage to your equipment.

When big lenses on tripods hit the ground, it is always the fault of the photographer. If you leave your tripod unattended and a drunk comes by and knocks it over, it is your fault. Period. An option that I often use when I need to step away from my tripod is to simply lay the whole rig on the ground. If it ain’t standing, it cannot fall. If I am at the beach, I will lay the rig across my customized Xtrahand Magnum vest. (Everyone who sees one wants one: http://www.vestedinterest.com/)

We can recommend a larger tripod for you, but if you do not learn to follow the guidelines above religiously, it too will hit the ground.

Just for the record, here it is:

Gitzo GT5541LS Tripod, Item #: GT5541LS. Price: $949.98 plus shipping. This monster replaces the CF 1548, but is lighter, stiffer, and stronger. We recommend this model for folks with 400mm f/2.8 or 600 mm lf/4 lenses that do not feature IS or VR technology, and for those who—in their efforts to create the sharpest possible images—demand the most rigid long lens CF tripod available.

Sorry to have to be so frank but I can only call them as I see them. To sum up, you just need to learn to handle your gear more carefully. Heck, I speak from experience. Over the first ten years that I used big glass I destroyed about six big lenses. Each accident was my fault for one of the reasons above…

Later and love, artie

The next day, Joel e-mailed me an admission of guilt… On all counts.

Saturday, July 4, 2009

Extreme Sports webinar

Bogen -- Extreme Sports webinar by photographer Michael Clark -- July 17. FREE! Here's the link.

Adding a beard

Adding a beard

how to add a real beard and mustaches using clone stamp and brush tool in Adobe Photoshop.

Friday, July 3, 2009

Frame your Graduate! Photo Contest

Frame your Graduate! Photo Contest

Send in grad photos of yourself, family members, or friends with a 500 character limit description during our one month entry period, and you could win a U.S. Savings Bond and either a photo frame or a diploma frame!

Church Hill Classics will select 12 Finalists, and then let the public vote for their favorite for two weeks! The public’s votes will determine a first, second and third place winners!

Prizes
1st Place - $200 Savings Bond and custom frame
2nd Place - $100 Savings Bond and custom frame
3rd Place - $50 Savings Bond and custom frame
9 Finalists – Photo frame and certificate

(more…)

Flow is the world's first Visual Workflow Manager

Dave Cross just reviewed this software and it looks VERY interesting. Versions are often a hassle to organize, but this software also has an "unflatten" feature which I have wished for many times! It also allows you to search for a file when you do not remember the filename but you do remember a specific font used or a name used in the file, etc.

See Dave's review here on Scott Kelby's website: http://www.scottkelby.com/blog/2009/archives/5293

Be totally organized without organizing anything.

Flow is the world's first Visual Workflow Manager, built from the ground up to keep creative professionals streamlined and informed. Flow gives you a total understanding of your project, visually and intuitively. In one simple interface, you'll see all your project files, how they're related to each other, and where they're located - on a local drive, on a network volume, even on a DVD you burned a few months ago.

This new birds-eye-view of your project gives you instant access to any file you need—and any version of that file, even if you've overwritten it while making changes. Flow even alerts you if you try to modify or delete a file that you shouldn't. Bottom line: no more lost files, no more accidents, and no more all-nighters. You'll find yourself delivering everything right the first time—without doing anything different.

John Nack, Principal Product Manager for Adobe Photoshop, calls Flow "one of the slickest, most potentially transformative applications I've seen in years." Could it transform the way you work? Check out Flow's features to find out.

Thursday, July 2, 2009

roseated spoonbill in DE

For the past few weeks there have been reports of roseated spoonbill in DE. It is quite a rarity! I did not post it at first because I figured that it would stay a day or two but it has been a regular and lots of people have been flocking to DE to see it.,

The first Roseate Spoonbill ever found in Delaware is in the back of Fenwick Island's Catch 54 restaurant...

people are posting play by play activities of this oddity

As of 3:25, the spoonbill was resting comfortably in the yard at the private residence along Madison Ave. Very close for great photo opportunities.

My fiance and I traveled south to see the Roseate Spoonbill this a.m. We first saw the bird around 8:45 flying towards Catch 54 from the west thanks to a gentleman who pointed it out as we were scanning the marsh. The bird landed very near Catch 54 and we quickly made our way back to the car. We viewed the bird from about 9:00-9:45 at less than 100 yards! It was resting
on the rocks along the waters edge just behind the private residence on Madison Ave.


The Roseate Spoonbill could be seen from the bridge west of the Catch 54 restaurant in Fenwick at 7am.

The bird is light, although obviously pink. Judging from Sibley's illustrations, it cannot be an adult but is most likely a second-year bird. It is unbanded. I recommend the Catch 54 Restaurant both for its food and its extraordinary ability to generate good luck for its patrons.

BTW, here's a link to a map that was posted by Tyler on DE-Birds the other day ... http://tinyurl.com/kn9laj The location is in Fenwick, DE about 1/2 mile west of Rt 1 and about 100-200 yards north of the MD/DE state boundary which runs along 146th Street, just south of Delaware Rt 54. Harpoon Hannah's is immediately north of the boundary.

After about 1 minute of scanning, the ROSEATE SPOONBILL came flying in from the north east side of Catch 54, around the building, did a circle over the field of Geese and lighted on the marsh edge nearest the field. It was initially obscured by vegetation but after another couple minutes the bird could be seen very well, foraging in the open water of the tidal creek, close to the edge of the field. Two other pairs of birders also enjoyed this view as the bird periodically switched from foraging, preening, and bathing (splashing around and flapping). We all probably watched it from about 1:30 PM to 1:50 PM, after which we had great looks at it flying back towards the east side of Catch 54. Very nice.

I arrived at the Catch 54 restaurant around 5 pm (6/25) and did not find the bird there. I drove around, south of Harpoon Hannah's restaurant, as suggested by Joe Hanfman, and then pulled in behind the Happy Harry's pharmacy on the north side of Rt 54, just east of the bridge, and found the bird in the wetlands around 5:15. At 5:30 the bird flew and I lost sight of it behind the phrag about one minute before Bill Hubick, Jim Brighton, and Stan Arnold arrived. A few minutes later it flew back to the same spot, behind the pharmacy. The four of us then moved to the top of the bridge when we could see it and also see into Maryland in case it flew south. We watched it until 9:15 pm but it stayed in DE, north of Rt 54, the entire time. Sometimes it was out of sight in the wetlands behind taller vegatation. Later in the evening it flew to the west side of the river, immediately north of the Catch 54 restaurant and landed on the grass with some Canada Geese and Mallards. It wandered to the edge of the water (still just north of the restaurant) and took a nap. Next it flew a short distance to the flats right next to the restaurant. Around 9:05 pm it settled in for the evening. We left around 9:15. I ran an errand (purchased some Harpoon Hannah's coconut muffins to take home ... ummm!) and checked the bird one more time at 9:35 pm from the Catch 54 restaurant ... it was still there, asleep! I have some photos of it DE that I will forward to the DE Records Committee. Bill Hubick has lots of good pix.

Here are some notes on finding Delaware's first reported Roseate Spoonbill.
I went down early, arriving at 7:30 am. The bird was roosting and feeding in the ponds on the north side of Rt. 54, west of Bennett Rd and the Catch 54 Restaurant. I was able to pick the bird out with the unaided eye along the elevated roadway past the bridge. I came back, turning at the light for the Cape Windsor development (formerly trailer park). I was able to park here along the remains of old Rt 54 and walk across the street to observe the bird and not be run-over.
About 8:00 am the bird picked up and flew back into the marsh behind some pine trees. It remained hidden despite trying to get several different angles to see where it landed. I even got permission to enter the Treasure Island campground just west of the marsh. Everything was unsuccessful, even after joined by Maurice and Jen. After 3 hours we decided to break for lunch at Catch 54, also a boat rental, Jet Ski area. All day was foggy until the clouds lifted at noon, and then boat activity picked up on the canal between Little Assawoman Bay (De) and Big Assawoman Bay (Md). As I watched the jet skis and eco kayaks go where I saw the bird fly into in the morning, I eventually saw the spoonbill flying back towards the canal. After a couple attempts to feed, it flew into roost at the one spot where it wouldn't be disturbed, right by the farmhouse. The locals said the bird has been there since Saturday. I guess even bird-sympathizing, presby-optic locals can't miss a pink bird. If you go down early, look for the bird along Rt 54 west of the bridge. As traffic picks up, the bird will fly away. If you get to Fenwick in late morning, wait by the restaurant for it to come into roost. I showed pictures and the bird to several staff members, including the bartender. His bar looks out over the marsh and he seemed interested in wildlife. Special thanks to Richard Wood for his initial report! Strong work!


http://www.flickr.com/photos/sandyinde/sets/.

Lightroom and Camera RAW updates

Adobe has release updates for both Lightroom and Camera RAW.

Download the Lightroom 2.4 update for Windows here, and the MAC here.

Download Adobe Camera RAW 5.4 for Windows here, and the MAC here.

Take the Histogram Challenge

Even though they are trying to promote light meters this is still an itneresting article...

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

From Gary at Hunts

ATTENTION CAMERA CLUB PATRONS

NECCC is just around the corner. Those that may have specific product requests they would like at NECCC, please email me by the close of Sunday July 5th. No requests will be considered after this date.

I will have great deals on Sandisk Memory Cards, LowePro Bags, Bogen and Gitzo Tripods, Induro Tripods, Adobe LightRoom, DataColor Software, NIK Software, On One Software, Sigma Lens, Epson Printer, and many other items.

A limited supply of Canon 5D Mark II Body and Canon 5D Mark II w/24-105 lens will be available.

Being offered in a limited supply is the Spyder III Studio at $399.99, and Sandisk 2 Gig Extreme III SD Card at 2/$25.00.

800.924.8682 ext. 2332 or ext. 2314 digitalguygary@wbhunt.com

Canon's Error 99: the Man, the Myth

Canon's Error 99: the Man, the Myth

http://www.lensrentals.com/news/2008.12.31/canon-err99